Cooking Techniques
for Life After Mashed Potatoes
Most recipes in the Life After Mashed
Potatoes section use pan-steaming or oven roasting. These are the
techniques that I have come to use, as my preferred balance in day to
day cooking among outstanding flavor, cooking convenience, and
preservation of nutrients. In your own balance, may wish to include stir-fry or other
techniques directed to the same ends.
Pan-Steaming (Stovetop Braising)
GENERAL TECHNIQUE
In this general purpose technique a relatively small
quantity of water is placed in the bottom of a large skillet. It is
brought to a vigorous simmer. Vegetables are placed in the liquid, the
pan is covered, and the vegetables steamed until done.
I then remove them to a plate. After they have
steamed off, I pour some of the cooking water back over them. Any excess
liquid, with its flavor and nutrients, goes into a stock pot in
the freezer.
One great advantage for the home cook is that
the vegetables do not need to be served right away. They survive well
overnight in the refrigerator. By contrast the sauté
technique, while producing quality second to none, requires immediate
serving.
Another advantage is that you do not need to
wait while a big pot of water comes to the boil.
Also, nutrients are preserved as the quantity
of liquid is small, therefore usable. In boiling or steaming they are
lost, along with desirable flavors. Such losses can be quite significant
for certain vegetables, and defeat the purpose of bringing them into
your menu.
Finally, the technique allows you to cook each
vegetable just the way you like. If vegetables are to be truly
delicious, this must be accomplished in one way or another. the
pan-steaming technique makes it entirely easy for the home cook.
A Note on Terms
The technique is also called stovetop
braising. This differentiates it
from oven braising. (But then, often the term braising is used to mean
oven braising). I use the term pan-steaming to avoid confusion.
Many home cooks refer to pan-steaming simply as steaming.
In cookbook writing this term usually connotes elevation above the
water: in a little basket in a saucepan, or a multi-level
steamer. Again, pan-steaming avoids confusion.
Oven Roasting
GENERAL TECHNIQUE
This technique is possibly even simpler,
although it takes a while longer. It produces effects similar to
grilling over a charcoal fire, an indoor version of the Italian barbecue
verdura
mista in gratticola. Much
of the quality of charcoal- grilled vegetables is attained, with better
temperature control for moist, succulent flavor of the inner flesh, to
say nothing of convenience.
My typical technique is to split the vegetable
in two, then place it cut side down on an oiled baking sheet. Baking at
375 degrees F. typically will take 30-40 minutes. Remember that this is
unattended time.
Vegetables may be roasted ahead of time. Reheat gently in warming oven or
microwave.
Overnight refrigeration often works, but is not
as certain as with pan-steaming.
Marcella Hazan
(The Classic Italian Cookbook) identifies the following as typical of the verdura
mista in gratticola: tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, onions, mushrooms, zucchini.
Others that work well here include yams, carrots, turnips, winter
squashes, Belgian endive.
For
some vegetables, such as yams and yellow onions, the skin will peel off leaving the
flesh intact to be cut into pieces. But eggplant or acorn squash will be mushy, fine for
whipping but do not expect pieces.
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