This is yet another counterpoint to our basic thesis of limiting cheese and pate in appetizers. This is not only a pâtè, but it takes a long time to prepare. This is for the home cook, but in non-busy mode.  So why is this recipe here? Because it's just too good, when you're giving a party, and have time to spare.

Based on Narsai’s Duck Liver Pâtè, from Gourmet Magazine November 1979. Note that butter must be set out ahead to soften, and the pâtè must be chilled four hours.

Serves 12 as first course

Pâtè

A couple of hours ahead, take the butter, which must be softened, 1 1/2 sticks, from the refrigerator.

Melt another stick of butter in the skillet. Add the sliced onion and cook until golden, 15 or 20 minutes.

Peel, core, and slice the apple thinly. Add to the onions and cook 3 minutes.

Rinse and trim the chicken livers. Stir them into the onions. Cook 4 minutes, or until the livers are golden on the outside, but still pink within. (I generally cook them a while longer, until the pink is almost gone.)

Place the liver mixture in a food processor.

Deglaze the skillet with dry Sherry over moderate heat, scraping up any brown bits. Add this liquid to the processor, with the heavy cream and salt.

Blend until smooth and transfer to a large bowl.

While still warm, gradually beat in the softened butter. Add lemon juice, plus salt and pepper to taste.

Place the pâtè in the serving bowl and chill 4 hours.

Gelatin

When the pâtè has chilled 3 hours or longer, prepare the gelatin.

Place gelatin in a small bowl and sprinkle with ¼ cup of the Ruby Port. Let soften 10 minutes.

Rinse and squeeze the cheesecloth and set it aside.

In a skillet heat sugar and 1 tablespoon water until the sugar is dissolved. Cook the syrup until it is a golden caramel color.

Add the remaining ¾ cup Port, red wine vinegar, and tarragon. Simmer 2 minutes.

Add the gelatin and cook until the gelatin is dissolved. Strain the mixture through the cheesecloth.

Pour the gelatin over the pâtè. Continue chilling until the gelatin is set.

Variation