This recipe, traditional in Cadiz according to Penelope Casas, uses a roasting technique with just a little liquid. The slightly browned skin is rich with flavors of garlic, sherry, butter, and olive oil. The dish obviously comes from a place and time when fat was not an issue.

These pieces are excellent warm, also superb for a picnic.

Serves 3 to 4

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Pour oil in bottom of roasting pan. Arrange chicken pieces skin side up. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and parsley.

Add chopped garlic to pan, and pour in sherry. Dot the chicken pieces with butter.

(May be made in advance to this point.)

Roast until done, about 1 hour. Baste frequently and add water as liquid evaporates. When done, chicken pieces on a white plate should drain yellow juices with no trace of rose.

Come picnic time, you will need some chicken that can be eaten with fingers only. For ease of preparation, consider moist-braised chicken thighs. For a more succulent treat, try these.

For simplicity, use either all dark or all white pieces. Mixing only complicates the times. Time given is for dark meat. White meat would be cooked in a shorter time.

Serves 4

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

To flour the chicken, a few minutes

Do not flour the chicken in advance. Delay until you are ready to proceed with browning.

Place flour on plate. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and optional Cajun spice. Mix with a wire whisk.

Rinse chicken under cold water. Pat dry on both sides.

Pour milk in small mixing bowl. Dip each piece of chicken in the milk, then place it on the seasoned flour. Spoon up flour over the chicken, then shake off excess flour. Coat again with flour by spooning up flour onto both sides. Shake off excess flour and set chicken piece aside on the second plate until needed. Repeat with all the chicken pieces.

To brown the chicken, 8 to 10 minutes

Place oil in pan and heat rapidly. Add chicken pieces skin side down, without touching. Brown 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or 5 minutes as you prefer. As pieces are browned, set aside on a plate until needed. Repeat until all chicken pieces are browned.

(May be done in advance to this point, even a day ahead. If holding more than an hour, refrigerate.)

To bake the chicken, 20 to 30 minutes

Place mustard in a small bowl. Stir in olive oil very gradually. Set aside until needed.

If chicken has cooled or been refrigerated, reheat in sauté pan. When chicken is sizzling, transfer to baking dish. Bake in oven 10 minutes.

Spread some of the mustard-olive oil mixture on top of the chicken, and return chicken to oven.

Repeat at 5 minute intervals. When the mustard mixture is used up, continue with oil from the baking dish.

Chicken will be done in 20 to 30 minutes. Pieces skin side up on a white plate should drain yellow juices with no trace of rose.