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We do not think of Chicago as an outpost of Provencal cooking. Yet there was a bit of influence, even in the 1920s. Arnold Shircliffe specialized in salads at the Edgewater Beach Hotel. For this one he marinated, in true Provencal manner, black olives in garlic and olive oil. These he then mixed with raw carrots and cucumbers (!) In principle this might seem a cultural clash, a disquieting dichotomy of distant flavors. Actually, it works extremely well. Shircliffe wrote A Book of Salads. I came into possession of the book, one result of living two blocks from Black Oak second hand bookstore. Overall, it was not an outstanding buy. Although it contains over three hundred pages of salads, most follow the fashion of an era when iceberg lettuce and Thousand Island dressing were the norm. This salad stood out, both in book and hotel. His guests were apt to say "oh my" when they first tasted it, and he gave that title to the salad. Serves 4-6 Marinade: Carrots, 2 ounces, chopped, or fine julienne Lettuce, rinsed, spun dry, and chilled in a paper towel Pit the olives. Cut them in half lengthwise to expose the inner flesh to the marinade. Place olives in a small bowl with the oil. Peel the garlic and cut in slices. Mash the slices and add them to the bowl. Marinate, stirring from time to time, for 30 minutes or longer. Remove olives from the oil, which should be reserved for later use. Whip olives in a mini-food processor, or mince by hand. Place them in the mixing bowl. Remove the seeds from the cucumber. Chop, or slice thinly. Chop the carrots, or cut in thin julienne. Chop the tomato, or cut in thin wedges. Place vegetables in the mixing bowl with the olives, but do not stir yet. Refrigerate. (May be made ahead to this point.) 10 minutes before serving, stir so that olives are distributed through the vegetables. Taste. If more garlic flavor is desired, stir in some of the reserved garlic-infused oil. Tear lettuce in double bite sized pieces. Place on the serving plate and toss with a very small quantity of olive oil. Spread the vegetable mixture on top. Variation Decorate with chopped hard-cooked egg. Stir in a few cooked baby shrimp. This can serve as a one-dish meal. Stir in substantial scallops or shrimp, also diced potatoes or short pasta. Double the quantity of marinade. Seasoned salad makers will recognize that this marinade, a flavored oil, is the "ette" of a vinaigrette. Add vinegar and you have a piquant oil-vinegar dressing for potato salad or other use. (See Potato Salad section.) |
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