Lentil salads are capable of many variations, but some are better than others. Lentil salad is not as versatile as pasta salad because of the robust flavor of the lentils. Pasta is neutral by comparison. You can mix a combination of vegetables and seasonings in a separate bowl. If it tastes right, you can stir it into pasta with confidence.

Not so with lentils. When improvising, I find that I start with the lentils and add ingredients, tasting all the time for balance with the lentils.

We do not make lentil salad as often as pasta salad. Whatever else you add, it is always lentil salad.

Lentil salads generally seem to be built on three themes: something crunchy, something spicy, and a vinaigrette.

This master recipe uses the classic celery for crunch, sausage for spice, and an ordinary vinaigrette. Variations follow.

(For an even simpler salad just toss the cooked lentils with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.)

Lentils may be cooked ahead the same day or refrigerated in their liquid for 2 or 3 days.

Serves 4 to 6

Cook the lentils by one of the methods in the Lentil Section. Drain lentils and place them in the serving bowl.

Stir in olive oil to coat the lentils slightly.

Stir in vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste.

Stir in celery. Stir in sausage.

Serve now, or let sit to blend flavors.

Variations

Top with yogurt, or garlic yogurt.

Use red wine vinegar, or balsamic vinegar, instead of white wine vinegar. Each of the three produces a different effect. These are quite strongly flavored themselves, thus allowing sausage to be omitted.

Flavored vinegars, such as sherry vinegar, or champagne vinegar, can be used.

Orange flavor goes well with lentils. Orange juice, orange zest. Marinate zest in the lentils before draining.

Minced sweet onions, or garlic.

In place of sausage, use toasted cumin and/or toasted coriander (see Basics).

Some of these are quite strongly flavored, obviating any need for an additional spicy ingredient.

In place of celery, or with it, use one or more of the following: