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Many of the published recipes for new California cuisine call for grilling of fish over a charcoal fire. There is no doubt that the fire imparts a distinctive taste to the fish, and t he method is suitable for restaurants, from which most such recipes come. But who has time at home to build a charcoal fire for weekday supper?In the recipe below, Angostura bitters are employed to supply a pungency otherwise absent for the grill-less home cook. This is preferably steeped for an hour, but can be used immediately. It is good at room temperature or chilled, and improves with overnight refrigeration. Serves 2 as entree, 4 to 6 as appetizer Fresh tuna steaks, 8 ounces, 1 inch thick, or any thickness Sweet red onion, 6 ounces, ˝ large onion Balsamic vinegar, 1 ˝ tablespoon Orange juice, 1 tablespoon or to taste To cook tuna Rinse tuna steaks in cold water. Place them in the pan in a single layer. Cover bottom of pan well with water. Add a little white wine. Cover pan and bring rapidly to simmer. Simmer gently until tuna is done, 130 degrees F. on the instant dial thermometer (see when is fish done?). For 1 inch steaks, this will be about 10 minutes. Turn once or twice during simmer. Remove fish to a plate. When cool, break it up by hand. First separate along the natural lines of cleavage, then break into double bite sized pieces. Sprinkle generously with Angostura bitters. Toss 2 or 3 times so as to coat all sides. Pour off any excess bitters remaining on plate. Stir in lemon juice and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Salt to taste. To prepare onions To prepare the onions split them lengthwise and peel. Cut into moderately thin wedges. Place onions in a pan and barely cover with cold water. Onions will seem like a vast amount, but they will cook down. Bring rapidly to the simmer and simmer uncovered 1 or 2 minutes. Onions should lose their raw taste, but retain their shape. Drain in colander, discarding water. Place onions in a bowl while still warm. Stir in balsamic vinegar, pepper, olive oil. Salt to taste. To mix and steep Stir the onion mixture into the tuna. Allow to steep an hour
or longer. Variation In absence of sweet red onions, yellow onions may be used in a pinch. Simmer them 3 minutes. For a complete summer meal, stir in cold short pasta, celery, black olives. Decorate with thawed frozen peas or lettuce chiffonade. |
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