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Here - with toasted walnuts and golden onions, flavored with coriander seeds and vinegar - is a good place to begin to balance the Middle Eastern flavors championed by Joyce Goldstein. "Robust Recipes and Lessons in Flavor" is the subtitle of her fine book, Kitchen Conversations (see Bookstore). In the Middle East, flavors are indeed more robust than in France. They are also balanced differently. In French cooking, you can generally get away with little or no salt, but in Middle East salt plays a definite role in balancing the various forward flavors. Bitter also comes into its own. This sauce is particularly good on eggplant. It is acceptable when served immediately, but best after overnight refrigeration.Makes 2/3 cup, Serves 3 Onions, 1/2 cup, 2 ounces, minced in food processor Walnuts, shelled, 1/2 cup, 1 1/2 ounces, toasted, then finely chopped Fresh coriander, chopped, 1/4 cup, or fresh basil Toast the walnuts in the toaster oven (See Basics). Finely chop them in the food processor or by hand. Heat olive oil in pan and sauté minced onions at gentle simmer about 8 minutes, or until golden. Add walnuts, coriander seeds, red pepper flakes, white wine vinegar, optional garlic, and salt. Cook two minutes longer. Stir in water. The sauce is done. Taste. Add more vinegar and/or salt if desired. If sauce is too thick, add water. Just before serving, sprinkle with fresh coriander. Variations Just before serving, stir in lemon juice to taste. |
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