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Broiling Julia Child advocates use of liquid routinely when broiling fish steaks. In From Julia Child’s Kitchen she passes along a tip from George Berkowitz, a Cambridge, Massachusetts restaurant owner. Berkowitz cannily noted that a diner sees only one side of a broiled fish. So, say Julia and George, concentrate on imparting to that side a spectacular brown, while the other side is kept moist and succulent in liquid. The Berkowitz Principle Home cooks should be encouraged to use this principle widely, and not only with fish, but anywhere, provided that we can get away with it. We should never attempt it, for example, with French fries, where the strategy would be blatantly obvious. even with straw potatoes, a subtle caution must be exercised. Here we can rightly concentrate on the visible side, but the underside cannot not be ignored. We expect this second crust, and a crust there must be. Zurich potatoes, which eliminate the undercrust, are not the same. Broiled Fish Steaks and Thick Fillets CHILD-BERKOWITZ METHOD Julia Child thinks that ¾ inch is the best thickness for broiling steaks, whether swordfish, halibut, bluefish, or cod. The fish is dried with paper towels, seasoned with salt and pepper, and placed in a buttered shallow flameproof baking dish. The top of the fish is dried again and buttered. White wine or water is poured to half the height of the fish. The fish is broiled, brushing once or twice with butter, 6 to 8 minutes or until done. |
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