The classic French way of cooking asparagus is to bundle it and boil upright in water in a covered pot. The tender tips, above the water surface, are steamed while the tougher stalks are boiled. This produces the desired differential result, but is cumbersome and time-consuming.

Nearly the same result may be achieved by laying the asparagus flat in a large pan, the tips elevated on a slice of carrot. A film of water is added and the asparagus pan-steamed.

Bonus: In the process the carrot will be cooked. Slice it lengthwise and serve with the asparagus for a bit of color.

To arrange the asparagus

Rinse asparagus in cold water and cut off ends. Peel bottom of stalk if skin is tough.

Cut the carrot lengthwise to form a piece about 1/4 inch uniform thickness. Place the carrot piece in the pan.

In the dry pan, arrange spears of asparagus so that tips rest on the carrot. Stems should rest directly on the pan surface.

If stems are short, place more pieces with the tips resting on other asparagus stems. The aim is to place the asparagus on one layer with the tips raised 1/4 inch above the pan surface.

To steam the asparagus

Place a teaspoon of water in pan and turn heat to medium high. When the water has evaporated, indicating that the pan is hot, add enough water to cover the pan surface.

Cover the pan. The water should soon begin to boil and steam steadily up through the asparagus. Regulate heat and replenish water as necessary so that the pan will not run dry. Season to taste part way through the cooking.

Asparagus generally will take about 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness. Very thick asparagus may take longer. Young, tender asparagus may be done as early as 4 minutes.

Test for doneness by inserting a sharp knife into the base of the thickest asparagus stalk. As a final test, cut a small piece at the end of a stalk. It should cut easily and cleanly, and taste done.

Lift asparagus out of pan and onto a serving plate. As moisture steams off, add back juices from the pan to preserve flavor and nutrients.

Serve with olive oil and lemon juice.

Use the steaming basket in a kettle with cover. Time is 12 minutes, more or less. When the stems are cooked, the tips are slightly overcooked, but the difference, while noticeable, is not huge.

How to Serve Asparagus

Richard Olney (Simple French Food) believes that asparagus should be served simply. For many of us, a vinaigrette might stand for simplicity. But he opposes a prepared vinaigrette of any kind, especially if it should contain mustard. He proposes that, if at all possible, guests be offered vinegar, olive oil, salt, and pepper separately.

Variation
Include a few toasted walnuts.

Here hazelnuts and peach preserves transform simple asparagus. The recipe also illustrates how useful the toaster oven can be when you need just a few roasted hazelnuts.

Your first time through, avoid my mistake of increasing the quantity of hazelnuts and peaches. This is quite rich with the small amounts listed.

Before cooking asparagus, toast hazelnuts in the toaster oven (see index). Leave hazelnuts whole, or chop coarsely as desired.

Cook the asparagus as above, or your favorite way. Place in a serving dish.

While asparagus is cooking, prepare the garnish. Melt butter in a small saucepan. Stir in hazelnuts. Stir in peach preserves and heat until melted, about 2 minutes.

Spoon garnish over cooked asparagus and serve.