Marcella Hazan believes that the best way to cook beets is to bake them in aluminum foil. She thinks that baking is far superior to boiling or microwaving.

Once you have experienced the dark, sweet, concentrated flavor of such beets you will probably agree. The only thing against this method is its rather long time, but remember that this is unattended time. Fortunately the beets can be cooked well ahead, or refrigerated.

These may be used in any recipe calling for cooked beets, warm or cold. To my taste, they refrigerate perfectly well for several days. If refrigerating, do not peel. Refrigerate in their skins, and peel before serving. (My usual technique is to toss them into the refrigerator in their foil, to deal with the whole thing later.)

Cut off beet tops and trim roots. Rinse in cold water. Wrap unpeeled beets in aluminum foil together or, if large, singly.

Place on a cookie sheet to catch any juices. Folds of the foil should be pointed up to allow steam to escape.

Place on upper rack of oven and bake at 400 degrees F. until desired tenderness is reached. This will take 1 1/2 to 2 hours, depending on size. Test for doneness by poking with a knife, and finally by taste.

Remove from oven and unwrap foil. Beets may be peeled just before serving, or peeled and sliced in advance.

To prepare in advance, let beets cool enough to touch, then peel and slice them. Place on a plate and keep moist with water or orange juice whenever they appear to dry out.

A slightly different method of baking is used by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters. They place the beets in a baking dish, add a little water (1 cup in an 8 by 10 inch dish), and cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. Oven temperature is 375 or 400 degrees F.

In my experience this method produces admirable beets. They are not quite so concentrated in flavor, but neither do they want to absorb so much liquid.

Beets and sour cream are a time-honored combination.

This is also a fine occasion for thick yogurt cream.  Stir orange juice (perhaps with a little zest) into the thick yogurt until it is sour cream consistency, and serve with the beets.

Traditionally beets are dressed with a normal vinaigrette, 2 or 3 parts oil to one of vinegar. However, Alice Waters has questioned the use of oil. She first adds vinegar, that "brightens and accentuates the beet flavor." After 30 minutes or more, only a little oil is added for balance.