Cabbage

     The worldwide usefulness of cabbage has, in a way, worked against it. The stereotype has cabbage as food for peasants in winter. But Alice Waters, for one, believes cabbage capable of sophisticated treatment. In her restaurant she serves dishes such as cabbage and foie gras, and salmon wrapped in cabbage. I should think that these establish her point.
     It is not necessary to go so far. The recipe below for Braised Cabbage with Sherry and Cashews, as a side dish, or as a bed for sea bass or salmon, makes a simple, excellent party dish.
     During the week cabbage is an ideal vegetable for the busy home cook. It is as versatile as spinach, without the intensive washing. Cabbage can be cooked quickly for supper, infinitely varied with additions.

Nuts and Seeds . . .
     Nuts, generally toasted, include peanuts and-especially-cashews, also almonds or hazelnuts.
     The traditional caraway seeds impart a rye flavor. Sesame seeds and sunflower seeds are also sometimes mentioned.

The Sweet-Sour Connection . . .
     The sweet-sour theme appears frequently in cabbage recipes, sometimes dramatically, sometimes subtly. Sweeteners include sugar, brown sugar, honey
     Vinegars include ordinary vinegars, balsamic vinegar, and a wide assortment of flavored vinegars.
     Mustards go well with cabbage wedges.
     Wines are generally on the sweet side: sherry, sauterne, port.

     For the busy home cook, wedges are the simplest to prepare, as they require no shredding.
     Wedges are sighted most often in a boiled dinner, or other mixture of potatoes, turnips, carrots.
     They may also be served alone, typically to accompany sausages or pork dishes. A tasty sauce heightens the appeal, some suggestions for which are given below.
     For better acceptance, serve a few narrow wedges. A large quantity of thick wedges will only reinforce the stereotype of peasant cooking.
     Wedges are cooked briefly. Cooking too long will result in the outer leaves getting mushy.

Cabbage Wedges
STEAMED

     Cut cabbage in 2-inch wedges.
     Place the basket and water in the kettle and turn on heat. When steam is comes up through the basket, place the wedges in the basket, wide side down.
     Cover and steam about 15 to 20 minutes. Cabbage should taste cooked, but retain some crunchiness.
     If serving individually, add butter and pepper.

Cabbage Wedges
PAN-STEAMED

     Cover bottom of pan well with stock. Place cabbage wedges on their sides. Cover and turn on heat.
     Braise until done, about 15 minutes. Turn once, at the 5 minute point, if you think you can risk it and keep the wedges intact. Cabbage should taste cooked, but retain some crunchiness.

Variation
     Toss in oil and cook a minute at the start. Or toss in oil at the end.

     However cooked, cabbage wedges may be served with a sauce. Try a spicy tomato sauce, or a sweet-pungent sauce. Scandinavians use ham sauce or mushroom sauce.
     Serve with sour cream. Or thick yogurt cream, diluted with cooking broth.
     Edward Brown (Tassajara Cooking) garnishes steamed cabbage wedges with lemon honey butter, caraway seeds, and chopped toasted nuts. (He steams for only 3 to 5 minutes.)
     Flavored mustards work well. Try Lemon Balsamic Mustard Dressing (Dijon mustard, hot sweet mustard, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, see index for proportions.)
     See generally "Additions to Cabbage" above.

     Better, more uniform appearance is achieved with a preliminary sauté in butter or oil. Cooking time is extended to 30 minutes, but even then external flavors are not as thoroughly, or deliciously, absorbed. Of course this doesn’t matter if you are using water, not stock.
     Master recipes for both methods are included below.

Braised Cabbage I
Start in Liquid, MASTER RECIPE

     This is the conventional method for braising of cabbage, using a kettle or large pan. A second method, after Knabrus, follows this recipe.
     Braising a crudo is particularly good with duck stock, such as produced from moist-baked duck.
     Best appearance is achieved if cabbage and onions are sliced as thin as possible.
     This braised cabbage will retain its full character standing for 45 minutes or so. It will begin to soften somewhat after that time, but remain almost as delicious.
     Flavors improve with overnight refrigeration. May be served hot or at room temperature.

     Remove and discard the outer cabbage leaves.
     Shred cabbage and onions in a food processor using the flat disc with the single slicing edge. (Or slice them thinly by hand.)
     Place cabbage and onions in the kettle. Stir in chicken stock. Season to taste with salt.
     Cover and simmer gently. Stir from time to time. Add more stock if cabbage seems dry.
     Cabbage will be done in about 15 minutes, but judge by taste. Cabbage should taste cooked, but retain some crunchiness. There is a range where personal preferences should rule.
     Just before serving, melt on butter and sprinkle with pepper.

Variation
     For improved appearance, stir in a little olive oil after cooking.

Braised Cabbage II
Start in Oil

     Shred onions in a food processor using the flat disc with the single slicing edge. (Or slice them thinly by hand.)
     In the kettle, sauté the onions in olive oil until they are translucent, about 5 minutes.
     Remove and discard the outer cabbage leaves. Shred the cabbage same as the onions, in the processor or by hand.
     Stir the cabbage into the onions. Simmer gently 5 minutes, stirring frequently so as to coat cabbage well with oil.
     Stir in water. Season to taste with salt.
     Cover and simmer gently 30 minutes. Stir from time to time.
     Cabbage should taste cooked, but retain some crunchiness.
     When cabbage is cooked, melt on butter and sprinkle generously with fresh ground pepper.