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The Mark Twain Trap Mark Twain had some advice for buying a stock: Buy one that will go up. If it doesn’t go up, don’t buy it. Separately Cooked Vegetables Traditional ratatouille contains this Mark Twain Trap. Each vegetable - eggplant, zucchini, onion, pepper, tomato - is added to the ongoing stew. Each one must be added just at the right time, so as to be nicely cooked at the end. Only with hindsight do you learn that you added something too early or too late. Julia Child’s latter-day ratatouille provides a solution (The Way to Cook). You cook the vegetables separately, mainly in oil, then combine at the end for a "brief communal simmer." Her recipe for a mixture of steamed vegetables is similar. Leeks, cabbage, carrots, and potatoes are steamed separately in aromatic liquid. The vegetables are served together in their broth. A little butter is optional with the cabbage; otherwise no oil or butter is used at all. Many vegetable recipes contain the Mark Twain Trap. To avoid the trap: Cook vegetables separately and combine at the end Steeping Some recipes call for oil to be added at the end and cooked with the vegetables 5 to 15 minutes. Instead consider steeping: Stir oil into fully cooked vegetables and let sit for 10 minutes or longer This means that you can cook vegetables independently just to the desired point of flavor and texture. In some dishes a longer steeping will improve the flavor. (Steeping is further discussed in Green Beans Provencal.) Steamed Vegetable Soiree Steam various vegetables separately: Just before serving, arrange in a bowl or on a platter. Sauce is key. Use lemon balsamic mustard, or Nina's Ravigotte Sauce. Yams mai tai makes a nice addition and contrast. Ho’rs d’oevres Blanch broccoli, cauliflower, baby carrots. Do not overcook. Serve with either above sauces. May be done ahead of time and chilled. If not overcooked, leftovers survive overnight in the refrigerator. Situation Cooking This vegetable assembly can be helpful when you have a vegetarian
guest, while the others are carnivores. Prepare enough
vegetables to accompany roast lamb, pork, chicken, or turkey for most guests,
with an extra amount for a complete meal for the vegetarian. Reheating Strategy For a large number of guests, you will need a reheating strategy. Cook vegetables in various pans and steamers. (The large Chinese steamer is helpful here.) Leave vegetables in place. Just before serving reheat gently, and place in a serving bowl. New England Boiled Dinner As Californians well understand, New England is next to Scandanavia geographically, both being somewhere east of Las Vegas. It is thus not a surprise that both regions enjoy, not only fish, but boiled vegetables. As described by Fannie Farmer (1943), the New England boiled
dinner consists of corned
beef and cabbage with addition of carrots, turnips, and potatoes. For the all-important sauce, Fannie suggested horseradish sauce, or mustard pickle sauce. If we turn to Sweden we find a host of sauces for fish, boiled vegetables, and boiled meats. Many are included in J. Audrey Ellison, editor, The Great Scandinavian Cook Book. |
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