Wine Articles
The articles in this section are selected
for general interest. They are intended to be useful wherever about the
country, or world, that you buy your wine.
The articles below that begin the series, and
no doubt many in future, are taken from local wine shop descriptions.
These folks know their wines, and how to explain them to the rest of us
who are not experts. Individual shop selections are included as
indicative of price, variety of characteristics within a type, or other
information of general interest across the country.
| Cote-du-Rhone
| Chateauneuf-du-Pape |Alsacian Pinot Blanc | Chiantis |
| Cotes de Provence | Tocai | Wine Appreciation | Chablis | Spanish Wines
|
With these two entries, Morgan
Miller at Oddlots Wine Shop, January
2001, continues his discoveries of lesser-known wines fully
equivalent in quality to brand names, but at lower prices.
Try Costieres de Nimes
The Costieres de Nimes
stretches sough from the old southern French city of Nimes and occupies
much of the western section of the Rhone River delta. The
river-deposited pebbly soils of the area produce excellent red wines
similar to its better-known cousins, the Cote-du-Rhones. In fact this
relatively obscure region is capable of making wines just as good if not
better at considerably lower prices. This superb version has an amazing
intensity and rich spiciness. Such renowned Cotes-du-Rhone villages as
Rasteau, Vacqueyras and even Gigondas would be hard pressed to match it.
1999 Costieres de Nimes Rouge [Cellier des
Vestiges Romains]. $6.99 per bottle.
Lirac is a major
wine-producing district in France's southern Rhone Valley. It's just
across the Rhone River from the famous vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The wines have much in common with those of its esteemed neighbor except
for the price. They are much less expensive but can be equally full
bodied and densely flavored. This beautiful example, in fact, costs
about the same as must standard Cotes-du-Rhone labeled as such, yet it's
definitely a cut above these wines. It possesses a particularly round,
supple nature and a deep raspberry fruitiness.
1999 Lirac [Domaine Duseigneur] $8.99 per
bottle.
A wine map showing Nimes and
Lirac can be found at www.winetoday.com.
Click on World Atlas, France, Southern Rhone.
Everyday value
One of the most useful,
general purpose white wines is Alsacian Pinot Blanc. It's always
pleasantly aromatic and has a softly dry flavor that enhances a wide
range of foods. They are not expensive and they have enough character to
stand-along as well. This particularly find example comes from the
beautiful village of Niedermorschwihr. The town is surrounded by some of
the finest vineyards in Alsace such as the famous Grand Crau sites of
Sommerburg and Brand. The Boxler family firm has also become in recent
years one of Alsace's most highly regarded producers.
1999 Pinot Blanc Alsace [Justin Boxler]
$7.99 per bottle. Morgan Miller, Oddlots Wine Shop, Jan 01
Classico has the brand name,
but other Chiantis can be better buys
The conventional wisdom about Italian
Chianti is that the best examples are Chianti Classicos. They're from
that part of the Chianti region between the historic cities of Florence
and Sienna. The rest of Chianti essentially surrounds this inner core
and is divided into such sub-districts as Chianti Rufina, Chianti Colli
Fiorentini and Chiant Colli Senesi.
The fact is that superb red wines that easily
rival Chianti Classico can also be made in these "lesser"
areas.
This beautiful example from the Sam Gimignano
section of Colli Senesi has been carefully hand made and aged in small
oak barrels. The intensity of fruit and the amazingly long and lingering
flavors will convince you of this. It doesn't hurt that it's about half
the price of similar quality Chianti Classico.
1998 Chianti Colli Senesi "Barriques"
(Le Macchie), $9.99 per bottle.
(Special Flavors note--A
wine map showing the Chianti areas may be found at www.winetoday.com. Click on World
Atlas, Italy, Central Italy and Sardinia.)
- Morgan Miller, Oddlots Wine Shop, November
2000
A.G. Ferrari clearly agrees. In addition to
a Classico, he offers two Chiantis from the "lesser" areas. He
also points out that the backbone of Chianti is the Sangiovese grape,
and offers two Sangioveses at very reasonable prices indeed.
Click on http://www.agferrari.com,
then Shop Our Store, Wine and Cheese, Central Italian Wine.
More on Sangiovese. This grape variety is now being grown
in the USA. Montevina Wines notes the following on its website:
Sangiovese is the featured grape variety of the
noted Italian wine region of Tuscany, where it produces the famed wines
of Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Virtually unknown in California before the 1990s, the grape is now being
planted throughout the state, including in Amador County. With 75 acres,
Montevina is one of California's leading growers and producers of this
appealing variety, which offers bright, plum and cherry aromas and
flavors with an intriguing spice-box tone.
Above from http://www.montevina.com. We became
aware of this winery through some selections in an A.G. Ferrari store.
Ferrari makes careful selections, mainly Italian, and we thought any USA
bottles chosen must be worthy indeed. You can click on the Montevina
website, give your location, and they will tell you where you can buy
their wines.
The reds are up and coming, may give Bordeaux
competition
No part of the world has a more romantic
image than the southern French region of Provence. However, it has only
been recently that the local wines have attained a bit of the same
magic.
There are now serious (and expensive) red wines
like Bandol and charming whites like those from the village of Cassis.
Even the trademark Provencal rose has gotten much better.
Lesser grape varieties have been supplanted by,
for example, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Both thrive in the region's
warm climate and spare soils. There's some feeling that, outside of
Bordeaux, Provence can produce some of the best pure Cabernet Sauvignons
and Cabernet blends.
This very low priced example, made in part with
both Cabernet and Syrah, shows the elegance and potential of the
Cabernet Sauvignon and the richness and complexity of the Syrah. It's a
wine that can now perfectly reflect the true spirit of Provence.
1999 Domaine Du Grand Cros, Cotes de
Provence, $6.99 per bottle.
- Morgan Miller, Oddlots Wine Shop, November
2000
From northeast Italy, a classic unique white
Tocai Friulano is a white grape variety
that's native to northern Italy. Specifically it's a specialty of the
Friuli-Venezia-Guila district in the northeast corner of the
country.
This example is from a small section of the
region called Collio, which is perhaps the best area for the grape.
Tocai Friulano is not to be confused with other
varieties with similar names like the French Tokay d'Alsace or the
usually sweet Tokays of Hungary. That being said its complex array of
flavors and aromas will remind many of Alsacian Tokay, which is actually
the Pinot Gris.
Both have a variety of fruity nuances with a
slight spicy backdrop. The profound difference, however, is the
profusion of herb aromas like fennel and thyme that is the signature of
Tocai Friulano. It seems to raise this variety to a special and unique
level which no others occupy.
1999 Tocai Friulano Collio, Primosic, $9.99
per bottle.
- Morgan Miller, Oddlots Wine Shop, November
2000
Ed. Note - For foods, and other wines, of the Friuli-Venezia-Guila
region click the A.G. Ferrari link in our Web Shopping section.
Including a common-sense note on wine appreciation in
general
First, Wine Appreciation . . .
Everyone is aware that there are different
levels of wine appreciation. If you remember the way your own wine
tastes have changed, you will see what we mean.
Most people start with slightly sweet whites
and then proceed through big, oaky Chardonnays into reds. There the same
progression often happens, from tannic and burly into more refined and
polished examples.
It is important to state here that there is no
right or wrong. Whatever you like is right. Our job is to find you on
that delightful, liquid curve and meet your needs. We also accept the
challenge of trying to stay one step ahead of you so that we can take
you farther down the road whenever you feel like exploring.
Whether that means ascending in wine
connoisseurship is a matter of opinion. The point is not to become wine
snobs, but rather to have fun during the few short years we have on this
planet. We just happen to think that learning and exploring and growing
are some of the greatest delights in life.
Then, Chablis . . .
All of that being said, it is interesting to us to
think about people who like Chablis. We find it is most appreciated by
those wine lovers who have the most experience. Even if that sounds a
bit elitist, it is backed up by our experience.
Chablis is largely unadorned. It tastes like
one place and no other no matter what you do to it. You either like its
green, citric, flinty, oysterishness or you do not.
Does this mean that Chablis has to be acidic,
tart and biting to be authentic? Absolutely not.
Now, Current Selections . . .
Enter the DeMoors: diminutive Alice and
Olivier. These two shy people could not make a severe wine if they
tried. We love their Chablis for its creaminess and generosity. If you
have never tried a true Chablis, this is your chance to find out what it
is all about. Here are our latest unfiltered selections.
One quick word here about the 1999 DeMoor
Sauvignon de St. Bris. If you want some, you had better call quickly.
The 1999 has lower yields than in 1998 and is even richer. This is the
essence of Sauvignon.
1999 Sauvignon de St. Bris Reserve Non-Filtre,
$14.95, due January 2001.
No matter what you may have heard about 1999
French wines, this wine was made from tiny yields. Made from 55 year old
vines it has classic minerals, grapefruit, and crushed stones in the
bouquet and passion fruit and citrus flavors in the mouth. Tastes like
Macon La Roche grown in Chablis.
1999 Chablis "La Rosette" Reserve
Non-Filtre, $19.95, 48 cases, in stock.
Extra rich in both nose and palate, this is
a tangerine scented, lavish wine with almost Tokay d'Alsace fatness on
the palate.
1999 Chablis "Bel Air" Reserve
Non-Filtre, $19.95, due January 2001.
The best two barrels in the cellar, this is
what teenagers would call "awesome." Cote d'Or Chardonnay
richness, Chablisien power and marathon length.
1999 Chablis "Cuvee Prestige"
Reserve Non-Filtre, $29.95, in stock.
- North Berkeley Wine Shop writers, December 2000:
Bill Weiss, Ian Dick, Bill Lucius, Chris Poulos, Jon Levine, Aaron Kamil,
Brian Harlan, David Hinkle, Stephen Gilbertson, Chris Hobbs, Matt
Licklider, Annabelle Constantin, Gregor Dixon.
Crianza on the label connotes a special
meaning
Rioja is no doubt Spain's
best-known red wine region. It borders Navarra and shares the
Tempranillo and Garnacha as the main grapes.
Crianza, by the way, refers to wines that
undergo a minimum of six months in cask (sometimes longer) and another
two years out of oak, usually in bottle. Under Spanish rules it is an
indicator of higher quality.
This Rioja shows that extra care in its very
smooth slightly vanillin flavors and almost spicy, oak tinged bouquet.
1997 Rioja Crianza (Vina Olabarri), $7.99
per bottle.
- Morgan Miller, Oddlots Wine Shop, November
2000
